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“If it weren’t for the excellent service and polite staff, this could be France!” joked a fan of the unadulterated bistro – an old stager that looks as if it’s been plucked from the belly of Paris and deposited in Mayfair without so much as a wash and brush-up. Regulars love the place, praising its terrific French food and charming vibe – although it can get pretty raucous at times (“bring your ear-defenders”). Mind you, any rowdy whooping from the assembled company should be instantly forgotten as “robust” plates of unfussy bourgeois food are brought to the table – “thick, warming” soupe a l’oignon, moules marinière, grilled rib of veal with roasted bone marrow, and – of course – creamy boudin blanc with truffled mash, pistachios and port sauce. The 500-bin wine list is a serious tome, with racks arrayed in the private room-cum-cellar downstairs.
020 7499 3292
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