But for the absence of a thick cloud of Gauloises smoke, this deliciously atmospheric wee wine bar could be a Rive Gauche joint circa 1958. Chirpy Parisian owner Carole Bryon has furnished the place with a copper-topped ‘comptoir’, where you can perch on a spindly high stool to pore over her mighty list of all-organic, biodynamic or natural wines (including over a dozen by the glass). A high percentage of these are from female producers championed by la patronne, hence the bar’s curious name. French growers predominate – Julie Balagny’s Sex Appeal 2015 is a Fleurie to flirt with – but many of the highlights hail from further afield (Egy Kis, a fine dry Hungarian Furmint, for example). Organic cuisine grand-mère adds to the Gallic allure: charcuterie, pissaladière, fried oysters with spinach beurre blanc and almonds, salade niçoise, and big bold cheeses. Still hungry? Rustic shelves groan with takeaway cassoulets and terrines.