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SquareMeal Review of Jolene Newington Green

Silver Award

From the outside, this new venture from the guys behind Primeur and Westerns Laundry looks like a candlelit private party – although appearances can be deceptive. Jolene is first and foremost a bakery but, come nightfall, it morphs into a restaurant with an ever-changing chalkboard of sharing dishes.

The simplicity of the Italian-leaning menu will be familiar to fans of the owners’ earlier ventures. Don't come here if you’re on a carbs-free regime, because their bread is as good as it gets; the sourdough almost chewy, slightly tangy and perfect with plates of jamón de Teruel or Tuscan salami so pretty it could pattern a dress.

Occasionally, simple veers into plain, as in a plate of romanesco with only a few almonds and raisins to add some interest, but almost everything else is stunning. Warm, rosemary flatbread slathered with herby oil is perfect with bowls of pasta made from home-milled flour – our buttercup-yellow ravioli filled with soft pumpkin and sage was unforgettable. Hefty mains such as an entire beef's cheek, bourguignon-style are designed for sharing, or you could go solo with a huge fillet of expertly cooked stone bass in a rich, satisfying retro butter sauce.   

As for the vibe, think Notting Hill minimalism meets Shoreditch warehouse with a Parisian jazz soundtrack and some cool customers (Nick Grimshaw was having a low-key dinner when we visited). Our advice: book ahead, arrive early and have fun watching the place fill up.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Under £30
Cuisine
French
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Lively
Food Occasions
All day dining, Breakfast, Brunch
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating
Special Features
Counter dining
Perfect for
Child friendly, Dates, Romantic
Food Hygiene Rating
Food Hygiene Rating 3 for Jolene Newington Green

About

Found in Newington Green, just off Newington Green Road, Jolene is a restaurant and natural wine bar offering all-day dining with a signature unfussy, ingredient-led approach. The original outpost from the same team behind a handful of produce-focussed restaurants and bakeries, everything at Jolene revolves around simplicity done well, with fresh baked treats, seasonal cooking, and a strong lean towards bread, wine and ingredients rather than overly constructed dishes and fancy embellishments. It’s popular at all times of day, from morning coffees and pastries to casual lunches and early evening visits for wine with a few plates to share. 

The dining room at Jolene feels stripped back but warm, featuring rustic elements with a pared-down aesthetic that leans into exposed materials, natural textures and soft, practical lighting. There’s no excess detail, instead it’s a functional, welcoming space where the bakery counter sits naturally alongside dining tables packed with friend groups and date night couples. It feels informal in the best sense, more like a well-run neighbourhood kitchen than a polished restaurant.

The menu at Jolene is driven by the bakery, kicking off with sourdough and butter, alongside bowls of olives and salame campagnolo. There’s also taleggio and Vesuvio tomato bruschetta, panelle with rocket and lemon, and roasted courgette with barley, feta and kalamata olives. Further down on the menu, you might find the likes of braised borlotti beans with cicoria and nduja, cured trout with aubergine caponata, calamari with red pepper and peppercorn and sedani chickpeas with smoked scamorza. 

Larger plates also include tortelli di patate with lamb and peas, pan-roasted ray wing with potato salad, and grilled lamb sausage with braised green beans. To finish, the Jolene Newington Green menu might offer up lemon soft serve ice cream with Chantilly and amarene or creme caramel with galia melon. 

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Details

Get directions to Jolene Newington Green Get directions to Jolene Newington Green
Location
21 Newington Green, Dalston, London, N16 9PU

020 3887 2309 020 3887 2309

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-15:00
Wed 12:00-15:00
Thu 12:00-15:00
Fri 12:00-15:00
Sat 12:00-15:00
Sun 12:00-15:00
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:30-22:00
Wed 17:30-22:00
Thu 17:30-22:00
Fri 17:30-22:00
Sat 17:30-22:00
Sun 17:30-21:00

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