The Lighterman

Set against the banks of Regent’s Canal, the Lighterman beckons with its three-storey restaurant and expansive terraces. It’s simple, yet elegant, offering an escape from the hustle and bustle of Granary Square.

Floor-to-ceiling windows win us over immediately and we feel in our own little world with our canalside table. It’s a refined and neutral backdrop, from the Scandi-style furnishings to the bursts of life from potted foliage sprinkled around the room. The lights are dimmed, leaving the setting sun to do most of the work, accentuating the natural charm of the waterside location.

The restaurant hums with life, despite being early on a Monday evening, a testament to the site’s popularity. There are even a couple of diners braving the April chill for a prime seat along the towpath.

Menus here boast the kind of gastropub cuisine you might expect from such a place, with the focus put on simplicity and quality. We kick off our evening with a crab salad. It’s delicate and uncomplicated but incredibly fresh, perched atop a circle of creamy avocado. The whole dish works as a spread and we slaver it on our toasted soda bread triangles - wishing we had more when they quickly run out.

There’s a whole section on the menu dedicated to flatbreads and we’re intrigued, ordering one to follow. These are not to be missed and arrive ‘when ready’ to maintain that incredibly crisp base that proves it’s straight out of the oven. Chorizo, sweet chillies and shaved fennel are a winning combination, as we rip apart the incredibly cheesy slices. Mussels arrive steaming in a never-ending pot that means we don’t quite reach the creamy sauce, despite our best efforts.

We finish with a lemon and vanilla cheesecake served with a raspberry sorbet. The base is full of seeds and nuts, an unusual addition that helps enhance the flavours and we devour every bite despite being incredibly full.

With its unpretentious charm, attentive service and refined dishes, an evening at the Lighterman is one well spent, with pretty reasonable price tags considering its picturesque location.

If you’ve wandered into Coal Drops Yard, the fashionable restaurant and shopping quarter by King’s Cross, you’ll have spied The Lighterman. One of the first restaurants rising to meet the eye as you cross into this gentrified hub, its sleek exterior, boasting Brutalist-esque architecture and floor-to-ceiling glass windows, stands out immediately. And, it’s a nod to the experience that can be enjoyed inside; The Lighterman is a contemporary pub concept with a modern British menu and a be-seen atmosphere. 

The menu is generally all-day dining, with some special dishes at the weekend. To start, the flatbreads are somewhat of a speciality, cooked in a clay oven. There are toppings such as Suffolk chorizo, fennel, smoked mozzarella and chilli, as well as asparagus, pea and lovage pesto with macadamia cheese. Other starters include Lighterman's fried chicken with chilli and lime, British burrata with orange and toasted walnuts, and British charcuterie with toast and chutney. 

Classic mains tick off some gastro-pub classics but with a decidedly Lighterman twist - Hake and chips come with crushed peas and homemade tartar, chicken schnitzel is accompanied by confit tomato, rocket and Parmesan, and the Lighterman burger includes smoked Cheddar, bacon and fries. 

Carnivores will enjoy the grill selection which offers up the likes of Saltmarsh lamb cutlets with green beans, 32 day aged rare breed sirloin and grilled prawns with tomato and garlic salsa, all cooked on open coals. And, whether your taste is more fresh and zingy or rich and indulgent, the pudding menu aims to please. Think rhubarb and ginger pavlova with vanilla bean yoghurt; warm cinnamon doughnuts with berry compote and tonka bean ice cream; or chocolate and peanut butter tart with salted caramel ice cream. 

At the weekend, feast on the brunch selection with pancakes piled high with tasty toppings, eggs any way you like and those delicious flat breads. The team recommend topping everything off with a Bloody Mary, of which there are many types.