Higher Ground’s deft cookery and sustainable focus have made it a bit of a poster child for Manchester’s incredibly exciting dining scene. Sustainable cooking, low intervention wines, whole animal in-house butchery - these buzzwords have become commonplace in restaurants, but Higher Ground is a restaurant that really shows the ceiling of these ideas when properly executed.
The beautiful open room benefits from the extra light of a nice corner spot on New York Street; this is a rare sunny April day in Manchester and the light beams in through the large windows. The design is slick, minimal, uncomplicated - a mirror image of the cooking. For those who love kitchen-watching, Higher Ground is a treat, with rows and rows of smart ochre bar stools arranged around the open kitchen, where a gaggle of chefs are busy over steaming pots.
Higher Ground is never trying to be more than it is, and it’s the experience that does the talking. Staff are outstanding - helpful, chatty, knowledgeable, experts at reading a room. We quickly have a glass of crisp Trebbiano in hand, and a summery plate of pea fritters in front of us, dusted in an almighty mound of cheddar.
Higher Ground gets the pacing of dishes spot on too, leaving you just enough time to wish you had more of the last dish before the next arrives. Lots of restaurants are scared to serve a simple wholewheat bread roll with good butter, but Higher Ground’s is better than 99% of more complicated bread courses. There's outstanding squid ink-cured ham with the texture of silk; fresh, crunchy radishes with cod's roe; and a terrific piece of beef, cooked medium rare and sliced thinly over split yellow peas and garlic scapes. Higher Ground’s trump card is access to produce from its own Cinderwood Market Garden, and the difference that makes to the cooking is tangible.
Lots of restaurants are talking the talk when it comes to cooking proper, seasonal, local, sustainable food. Higher Ground is walking the walk too, and the results are extraordinary. This restaurant would be a huge hit anywhere in the country - Manchester can count itself very lucky indeed.