INO

Sipping on Athens Spritzes on the sun-soaked terrace of INO, feels as though you could be transported from Carnaby to a convivial taverna somewhere in Greece. Or, it would have, if it weren’t for all the people bustling past carrying Pret coffees and Fred Perry shopping bags.

With the atmosphere giving off summery vibes, soup seemed like a jarring option for a starter. Our server, however, enthusiastically suggested the Kakavia, so we obliged and we were glad we did. The traditional Cretan fisherman’s stew we were expecting never appeared. Instead, we were presented with a refreshing fish broth, served with chilli and sublime grouper sashimi for dipping.

Surprise seemed to be the theme of our evening at INO, the brainchild of the team behind Marylebone’s OPSO and the two Michelin-starred restaurant Funky Gourmet in Athens. The taramas was nothing like fishy pink gloop you find in the supermarket, but rather creamy, slightly sour (in a good way), and whipped to perfection. Bottarga fish roe adorned the top, while a slow-cooked egg yolk nestled in the middle ready to be broken apart by fluffy hand-stretched pitta.

The seftalies sausages too had been given an update. Usually made with pork, at INO they’d been crafted from tender beef wrapped in lamb, giving them a delightfully rich flavour.

A Metsovone croquette came with strawberry jam, which gently enhanced the flavour of the cheese, while the octopus taco and catch of the day carpaccio were startling good.

Dessert didn’t disappoint either. We ordered the mysterious ‘red box’, which turned out to be a mini chest of drawers. Each compartment contained a different sweet treat, ranging from a decadent white chocolate pistachio truffle and a crispy baklava filo to a tiny caramel sweetie wrapped in faux plastic that you can eat.

One of the most unexpected pleasures was the wine. Greek vino has been rather underappreciated internationally until now, but in 2021 it’s on the up and INO offers an insightful selection. A Cretan vidiano perfectly complemented our light seafood dishes, while a full-bodied Katsaros cabernet sauvignon paired beautifully with our meatier small plates. We even tried a chardonnay from the former mayor of Thessaloniki.

The only thing that’d be more surprising than our meal at INO would be if we didn’t return for a second.

While some chefs have embraced the evolution of high-tech gadgets and new-age techniques, others have instead reverted to the very building blocks of cookery to concentrate on ingredient-led fare and pure flavours. The team behind Greek tavernas INO are very much in the second camp and have taken things back to basics to create a menu that has been inspired by the chefs’ love of cooking over charcoal and old-world flavour combinations.

This rustic approach means guests can expect plates of wonderfully smoked and charred meat and seafood. These offerings are elevated by using the best produce and a wonderfully simple, but beautiful, presentation style. With a love of all things seasonal, the team here allow their menu to change and flex as the seasons pass, but there’s consistency found in the Greek flavours. Start with a rich and smoky taramasalata or a lighter sea bass carpaccio before moving on to octopus tacos or cauliflower steaks. Larger plates include souvlaki, steaks and beef short ribs cooked over the coals, as well as sides like wild mushrooms with black garlic or a classic Greek salad with fresh mint and mature feta.

Ensuring the drinks have been carefully selected to match the level of the food, the bar team have devised a concise run of unusual, craft brands. Here you’ll find barrel-aged cocktails, draft beers, a honed wine list and a couple of soft drinks – like Coca Cola and grapefruit soda.

INO comes from an experienced team, being backed by MGFG restaurants. Most notably the owners also run Funky Gourmet in Athens which is world-renowned for its innovative, Michelin starred Greek food. Other sites for the group include OPSO restaurants in both London and Dubai as well as PITTABUN outlets in London which serve up a relaxed rota of Greek souvlaki and street food items.