A Mecca for musos back in the day, what was Hitchin’s legendary Hermitage Ballroom now feels like “a New York hangout dropped into the town” – imagine a thunderous, high-decibel bar and a separate high-ceilinged dining room complete with its original arched window, lots of eccentric touches and bags of good-time razzmatazz. The menu majors on fashionable small plates and sharing boards, backed by supplies of Norfolk mussels, oysters and fish – perhaps pollock wrapped in serrano ham with seared scallop, pea and truffle cream. Burgers, grills, hot dogs and salads hit the spot, while puds might include rhubarb and custard cheesecake. Wines, craft beers and cocktails lubricate the drinkers, there’s breakfast at the weekend, and a daytime coffee bar at street level does the business for passing shoppers. Related to The Fox at Willian and The White Horse, Brancaster Staithe.