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SquareMeal Review of Heritage

Silver Award

Maybe it’s the chiming of the Swiss glockenspiel in Leicester Square but for years Soho has been one of the very few places in London where diners can sample Swiss cuisine, thanks to Wardour Street’s long-serving St Moritz. We’ve always been big fans, but as the fondue specialist until recently only took bookings by fax, it’s fair to say that London was crying out for a 21st-century alternative.

Which is where Heritage, on neighbouring Rupert Street, comes in. The restaurant aims to give traditional Swiss food a modern makeover in a contemporary setting.

It works a treat. The sophisticated dining room looks aptly Alpine, but not to the extent of feeling like a chalet, with dark wood, exposed brick and industrial lighting, though it’s the smell of the place which really sets the mood, with the distinct aromas of the tabletop charbonnade grills scenting the dining room with the fragrance of pine and barbecued meat.

We were given a short induction on how to cook the thin slices of meat (we chose Dedham Vale chateaubriand) before being left to our own devices. We’re always suspicious of places where you’re expected to do the cooking, but this is near impossible to get wrong – and it tastes incredible. The smoky flavour from the charcoal injects that distinct barbecue taste and when paired with bordelaise sauce, homemade mustard and horseradish cream, it’s even better.

The menu is fairly short, and you will want to order everything on it, especially if you like cheese: it comes melted over rosti, in the raclette topping a Trenchmore Wagyu burger with foie gras and truffle and bacon jam and, of course, fondue, which arrives in cute little pots filled with gooey, silky-smooth cheese.

Desserts come with a suggested cocktail pairing; we opted for the signature cinnamon cake (the Swiss take on a sticky toffee pudding, but much lighter) and a well-made Espresso Martini. The wine list is extensive and impressive, featuring bins rarely seen outside Switzerland.

Other little luxuries such as crusty bread with truffle butter lifted the experience further, as did friendly, smartly dressed staff. Heritage is a fantastic place to go for a taste of casual luxury. We would even make a reservation by fax if we had to.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Dark and moody, Lively, Unique
Food Occasions
Late night dining
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Dates, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

Location for Heritage

18-20 Rupert Street, London, W1D 6DF

020 3995 7500


Opening Times

All day
Mon 12:00-00:00
Tue 12:00-00:00
Wed 12:00-00:00
Thu 12:00-01:00
Fri 12:00-01:00
Sat 12:00-01:00
Sun 12:00-23:30

Reviews of Heritage

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1 Review 

Alex G

Switzerland made modern
07 October 2019   - Verified Diner

Switzerland may be famous for many things and among them cheese and chocolate, but the concept of a Swiss restaurant has never become entrenched, and certainly not in London. Maybe it’s because the long-established (and still much-loved by many) St Moritz restaurant on Wardour Street has become a beacon of Swiss kitsch, with its chalet-like interior, gingham furnishings included. Heritage, open since July, takes Switzerland into the 21st Century, a perfectly-pitched offering that has the potential to endure. There is nothing in the name of the venue nor that of the head chef (Aarik Persaud) to make diners think of Switzerland. The décor, a predictable combination of exposed brick and metalwork, doesn’t offer many clues either. The observant may note though the thoughtfully-chosen Keith Haring posters from the Montreux Jazz Festival. However, the pervading smell gives this venue an ineluctably Swiss sense: wood smoke and melted cheese pervade– in a good way. Despite there being no shortage of rich dairy products on offer (and we loved the homemade truffle butter which accompanied the bread), Heritage is about much more than just this. The food might not all be what a local purist would describe as ‘echt’ Swiss, but it certainly delivered. Take my dishes. First up was a smoked beef tartare starter, presented beautifully and assembled live in front of me with the only nod to Switzerland being the inclusion of what the menu called ‘potato hay,’ or curly crisps to you and me (see photo). This was followed by a main of Cornish (yes, you did read that correctly) hake, served with a lovely textured mustard dressing and complemented by borlotti beans. At least, we were informed, all the cheese is imported direct from Switzerland. A Kaltbach dessert platter showed just about everything that is good about the country’s cheese; savoury and smoky, paired superbly with truffle, walnut and figs. Many think – and rightly so – that Switzerland is not a cheap place. Yet, a 2-course set lunch for £24 (or 3 at £29) constitutes great value in central London. Sure, a la carte or the inclusion of wines would push the bill up, but based on what we experienced, there would certainly be cause for a repeat visit. The 60-cover venue apparently fills up in the evenings and the cocktails also come highly recommended.  

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