From the team that brought us The Palomar and The Barbary, Evelyn’s Table sits in the cellar of reinvented Chinatown boozer The Blue Posts, beneath the ground-floor pub and first-floor Mulwray’s cocktail bar; it’s an intimate, romantically lit space, with a ‘private’ sign on the door, seats for 11 diners around the horseshoe counter and a name that references Faye Dunaway’s femme fatale in Roman Polanski’s 1974 film Chinatown.
The kitchen deals in small plates with a southern European accent and there are some top-notch suppliers on show: sourdough bread courtesy of Michelin-starred Hedone, cheeses from La Fromagerie and fish from the dayboats at Looe, which delivered our biggest hit of the night: beautifully cooked hake with capers and olive oil-soaked croûtons.
Elsewhere, our croquette-like salt-cod beignets with punchy taramasalata, and subtly smoked eel on excellent blinis, had the edge over some good (but not brilliant) duck tortellini and a plate of presa ibérica, which lacked the same clearly defined flavours – although there were no such complaints about our deliciously chewy tarte Tatin, as sweet as a toffee apple.
Food aside, how much you enjoy this experience will depend on whether you’re happy to chat to the friendly chefs and front of house or prefer to give your companion your undevoted attention – Evelyn’s Table isn’t really recommended for those who want to be left undisturbed. Still, this is definitely a Chinatown address worth remembering.