Hackney Coterie

International·
££££
·
Silver Award

SquareMeal Review of Hackney Coterie

Silver Award

Hackney Coterie is a brasserie and wine bar found in a repurposed warehouse. Outside, there’s an open-air terrace, while inside features Hackney appropriate interiors - industrial elements such as exposed brick walls and ceiling pipes are juxtaposed with warmer features, including potted plants and contemporary artwork.

Much like its interiors, Hackney Coterie’s menu taps into current restaurant trends, serving a list of seasonal sharing plates. Don’t expect crowd-pleasing, populist dishes though, for the food here is often surprising, occasionally curious and always thoughtful.

Hackney Coterie’s website vaguely notes it is ‘not attached to a specific cuisine’, although we recognised strong Asian influence throughout. The kitchen is also passionate about minimal waste, evidenced by a plate of leftover fried potato skins offered as complimentary snacks to every table, showered with a lively kimchi salt and dangerously addictive.

Between two, we recommend ordering four small plates and two large. From the former, we most enjoyed the ‘thousand layered potatoes’ - thinly sliced then pressed together to create a golden stack with a crisp outer edge and fluffy center, paired with a slightly bitter black tea mayonnaise. Elsewhere, grilled flatbreads are coupled with umami-rich taramasalata, while chargrilled salmon belly is served skewered, lightly spicy thanks to gochujang chilli, but its heat tempered by a neighbouring splodge of fermented apricot.

From the larger dishes, hefty salmon steaks are slicked with soy and complemented by a lime and sambal salad that helps its freshness sing. Pork belly meanwhile, is fatty and succulent, showered with cubes of pickled watermelon to cut through its richness.

For pudding, the stand-out dish is the burnt butter tart, a disc of thick-set custard supported by a buttery biscuit base and sporting a creamy, almost savoury texture - a smart choice when looking for something in between sugary delight and cheese board.

We also appreciated the sweet, intimate service - perhaps a necessity in a restaurant where you have to walk through the kitchen to get to the loos. Sharing concepts might be de rigueur these days, but Hackney Coterie’s menu is exciting and inventive enough to feel like it offers something fresh.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
International
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Quiet conversation, Quirky, Unique
Other Awards
SquareMeal London Top 100
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating, Terrace
Special Features
Vegetarian options
People
Dates, Group dining [8+], Romantic

About Hackney Coterie

Hackney Coterie is a modern restaurant, wine bar and wine shop which finds its home in Hackney Downs. It’s the second venture from restaurateur Anthony Lyon, who opened Lyon's Seafood & Wine Bar, the nose-to-fin seafood restaurant in Crouch End in 2019. This time around, he has been joined by sommelier and kikisake-shi master of sake Kelvin McCabe, with the pair working together to create this relaxed all-day dining space.

Hackney Coterie spreads itself across two floors, as well as boasting a large outdoor terrace at the front of the building and a basement space that can be hired out for private events. It’s a relaxed and calming space which makes use of natural materials, while exposed brick walls and polished concrete floors are nods to the venue’s former life as a warehouse. Adding some warmth and character to the space are commissioned artworks, bottles of wine and verdant greenery, all of which adorn the walls throughout the venue.

Head chef Dominic Auger (formerly of HIDE and Scully) oversees the kitchen, having designed a menu which is seasonally driven and intentionally low-waste. The food offering takes an international approach, without restricting itself to one specific cuisine. The menu changes weekly, but the types of dishes you might find on your visit include pig head croquettes with baby shrimp, rhubarb sriracha and onion seeds or salmon tartare with jasmine pickled cucumber, aged soy and peanut. Puddings meanwhile, might include burnt apple filo tart topped with hazelnut and koji crumble and served alongside tonka bean ice cream.

At the weekend, you can head here to enjoy brunch plates such as mushrooms on toast with mushroom ketchup and pickled shimejis, while during the evening DJs will play a mixture of funk and jazz tunes. As for the wine, expect a variety of biodynamic, organic, and minimal intervention varieties.


FAQs

Who is the head chef at Hackney Coterie?

The head chef is Dominic Auger, who previously worked in the kitchens at London restaurants HIDE and Scully.

Helpful? 0

Does Hackney Coterie serve a Sunday roast?

Yes, Sunday lunch is served each weekend and the menu focuses on a whole cut that changes regularly. Think whole BBQ spatchcock chicken, pork belly and salmon tails.

Helpful? 0

Does Hackney Coterie offer vegetarian options?

The menu here changes weekly, but there is usually at least one vegetarian option available.

Helpful? 0

Location

230B Dalston Lane, Dalston, London, E8 1LA

020 7254 4101

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-15:00
Wed 12:00-15:00
Thu 12:00-15:00
Fri 12:00-15:00
Sat 10:00-16:00
Sun 10:00-16:00
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:30-22:00
Wed 17:30-22:00
Thu 17:30-22:00
Fri 17:30-22:30
Sat 17:30-22:30
Sun Closed

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