The original Gatti’s is no more, but its spirit has been successfully transplanted from Finsbury Avenue to Ropemaker Street. A casual wine bar/diner overlooking the square dishes out arancini and snacks, while the more formal basement room has echoes of sister restaurant Bolton’s with its red-leather banquettes and white tablecloths. Come here for familiar, easy-to-like starters of seafood salad, minestrone and San Daniele ham with Mozzarella (or melon), followed by calf’s liver with butter and sage, grilled Dover sole or homemade ravioli stuffed with chicken and veal. A sense of theatre means plenty of trolley action, from rib of beef to puddings galore, while a takeaway and delivery service soothes office workers in need of some casalinga-style comfort. Arrive early for Gatti’s convivial and sensibly priced City breakfast, or stay late if you fancy making inroads into its list of tasty Italian reds.