Fourth and Church

This very likeable neighbourhood restaurant, tapas bar and deli serves up a range of exciting and enticing dishes made for sharing. Owners Sam Pryor and Paul Morgan created the menu by taking inspiration from all over the world, with an end result that feels like a British version of a Spanish tapas bar, with an equal emphasis placed on eating and drinking.  

Originally centred on the deli side of things, Fourth & Church’s main focus now lies with its restaurant. There’s still more than a hint of the delicatessen in the likes of cold sharing plates such as charcuterie, home-cured duck pastrami, aubergine caponata, labne with pomegranate and quince and chicken liver parfait.

It’s with the hot dishes, however, that the creative kitchen really hits its stride. Confit duck breast comes with smoked pecans, PX raisins and harissa sweet potatoes; lamb shoulder is braised in tamarind and served with spinach, feta and mustard seed oil; while vegetarian options are particularly good: try the celeriac dumplings with beetroot kvass, Neal’s Yard Dairy goat’s curd and cep and shallot purée for a gourmet twist on classic cheese and onion flavours.

There’s a snappy selection of three desserts – chocolate marquise, lavender-poached pear, crème caramel, perhaps – though cheese is really the thing to order here, especially the selection of whichever four artisan cheeses are on offer that day, served with pickles and crackers.  

Drinks get top billing alongside the food, which is to be expected given that Fourth and Church is a wine merchant as well. Seven sherries fit into the tapas vibe of the place, there are eight sparklers for celebrations and two dozen thoughtfully curated whites and reds, most of them available by the glass; book the private dining room for 12 and the team can come up with bespoke wine pairings to match your meal.

Celebrating a decade at the heart of Hove’s independent dining scene, Fourth and Church seamlessly blends a contemporary neighbourhood restaurant, lively bar, and well-stocked wine shop. Founded by industry veterans Sam Pryor and Paul Morgan, this Church Road spot is an understated, comfortable space that has evolved into a true destination for food and wine lovers.

The culinary ethos is all about bold, globally-inspired flavours, drawing inspiration from the Levant, Southern Europe, and beyond. The kitchen works with carefully selected local and regional producers to source seasonal ingredients, turning them into innovative small plates packed with layers of umami. The ever-changing menu features a diverse range of vibrant, seasonal dishes.

Flexibility defines the experience, allowing guests to build a light snack or an indulgent feast. Daytime visitors can enjoy the award-winning, exceptional-value set lunch menu, which features bistro classics with a signature twist and dedicated vegan options. In the evening, the multi-course dinner chef's seasonal set menu offers a complete showcase of the kitchen's creativity.

Wine shares equal billing with the food, featuring a dizzying collection sourced from small, independent winemakers. Fourth and Church boasts a particular passion for the regions of Jura and Savoie, alongside the back roads of Spain and Italy. Notably, it also houses the largest sherry collection on the South Coast. Guests can sample from an ever-changing by-the-glass selection or select a bottle straight from the retail shelves to enjoy at the table. The drinks list is rounded out by clever cocktails, a rotating ‘Martini of the Week’ paired with a snack, and a sophisticated range of grown-up ‘Low and No’ alcohol options.

With a welcoming, informal atmosphere and a friendly, knowledgeable team, Fourth and Church perfectly captures the spirit of a neighbourhood joint. Diners can pull up a stool at the bar or window seats from Tuesday to Saturday for aperitivo hour to enjoy free snacks alongside their drinks.