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Don’t be taken in by the mullioned windows and gabled wings, this grand edifice next to Chatsworth Estate was actually erected in 1907 for a vicar with a penchant for all things archaic. Since 1988, it has belonged to Max and Susan Fischer, who have turned it into a civilised retreat where the cooking is the main attraction. Max and head chef Rupert Rowley are capable of great things, although you can expect to pay handsomely for the privilege of sampling their high-end ‘classic’ menus (£78 for three courses). Fashionable riffs and modish techniques abound: fillet of red mullet is cooked over ‘burning coals’ and served with red pepper, aubergine and Ibérico chorizo, while slow-roast loin and shoulder of rose veal is partnered by hand-rolled macaroni, truffle dressing and herb purée. For afters, how about Brillat-Savarin pannacotta with pomegranate granita? Classy wines are also aimed at those with fat wallets.
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Mr. Colin M
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