Yet another new arrival in King’s Cross, this informal Japanese noodle, er, den, is making its mark by focusing on udon (thicker and less calorific than ramen noodles). Take a seat at a long communal bench and choose from udon served hot with or without broth, or cold with dipping sauce. The menu also contains reasonably priced ‘tsunami’ small plates: the likes of saké-steamed clams; plump, fatty wine-stewed pork belly; and chicken karaage (fried twice for crispiness), which mops up those spare udon calories nicely. Our generously portioned chicken, mushroom and green salad udon soup needed more meat, the broth thinner and less fatty than the versions at Kanada-Ya or Ippudo. A ‘carbonara’ noodle dish with spicy cod roe and Parmesan, though intriguing, tasted unappetising. There are no desserts, leaving time to sample the refreshing shochu and saké cocktails. Despite shortcomings, Den is a relaxing spot for a casual meal.