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SquareMeal Review of Cub

Silver Award

‘Sustainable living doesn’t have to be about sacrifice and luxury doesn’t have to be about waste.’ The manifesto at this zippy diner sets the scene for an eco-minded menu, where drinks share equal billing with food. A collaboration between bar superstar Ryan Chetiyawardana (aka Mr Lyan of Dandelyan fame) and Doug McMaster of Brighton’s zero-waste restaurant Silo, Cub is a hub of creativity.

Engaging staff talk you through the regularly changing set menu, as they deliver seasonal food and cocktails, prepped before your eyes at the long bar-cum-pass. Our mostly veggie spring menu kicked off with bites of barbecued purple sprouting broccoli dotted with creamy fermented black garlic and yellow brassica flowers, alongside a tangy sweet’n’sour rhubarb and beetroot tart packing a flavour punch. Next up, a long drink simply titled ‘Nettle Watercress Pear’ – a fresh, herbal Belvedere Vodka cocktail with a peppery kick.

Other highlights from the 12-strong selection included hay-smoked artichoke broth, a savoury hit of comforting umami, and a textured dish of baby leeks and fermented Pink Fir potatoes topped with crispy onion strands and frothy whey sauce.

Drinks, meanwhile, roamed from a palate-cleansing Bruichladdich whisky mix with koji, chamomile and apple to a delicate non-alcoholic blend of exotic teas including Chinese Keemun black tea and Hojicha Japanese green tea.

Beautiful presentation and a sense of the unexpected add to the delight of dining here. The worthy ethos and hipster buzzwords – foraged, fermented – could too easily be dismissed as trend-seeking, but Cub proves that eating and drinking sustainably can be as enjoyable for you as it is good for the planet. 

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cool, Fun, Lively
Food Occasions
Late night dining
Special Features
Counter dining
Dates, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

Location for Cub

153 Hoxton Street, Hoxton, London, N1 6PJ

020 3693 3202


Opening Times

Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 18:00-00:00
Thu 18:00-00:00
Fri 18:00-00:00
Sat 18:00-00:00
Sun Closed

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