Having opened over 100 years ago, The Macbeth is a proper East End boozer. If these weathered walls could talk, they’d tell you of Franz Ferdinand gigs, rowdy pub brawls and long-standing club nights. It managed to overcome near closure in 2019, and now, thanks to Jamie Allan (who co-founded Four Legs) and front-of-house collaborator Patrick Nolan, it seems there’s life in the old pub yet.
The duo have ripped out the old stage, installing a handsome English oak bar in its place, and restoring the striking 19th century mural. The result? Less polish, more stripped-back charm. We nab a couple of low stools by an antique fireplace, where we will remain for the next three hours. Service is genuine, unhurried and on the right side of casual, and with a house ‘Macbeth’ lager for less than a fiver, it’s worth sticking around.
Akin to Allan’s previous ventures, the menu is an assortment of no-frills, Portuguese-leaning pub snacks - the sort of stuff that goes down well after two pints. Case in point: a dinner plate piled with crusty, sliced baguette, each one slathered liberally with salted butter.
Up next, a glistening heap of marinated mushrooms, complemented by slithers of salty dry-cured jamon. They’re lightly pickled, superbly seasoned and delicately herby, in unfussy Portuguese style. Chamuca-style lamb samosas are fun, flaky and deeply rich, elevated by a dollop of sweet plum chutney. If you can, order both.
Allan’s pork bifana is perfect pint food - heavy on the cheese, gentle on the mustard, and has just the right ratio of bread to soak up the juices. It’s Portugal’s answer to a kebab and you can order one until 11pm here.
The cooking is impressive, but that isn’t what makes The Macbeth shine. In a city where every pub is trying desperately to be gastro, this one is going straight back to its roots. An old-school boozer serving rustic Portuguese plates might sound an unlikely combo, but here it just works - rooted in history, still very much a drinker’s pub, and all the fresher for it.