Crispin

Crispin was once that slightly incongruous, jaunty pagoda, serving surprisingly good food at the end of Artillery Lane. These days, no-one is surprised - HAM Restaurants has become one of London’s most reliable exponents of hyper-seasonal British cookery, with sibling restaurants like Bistro Freddie and Crispin at Studio Voltaire also nailing that razor sharp balance of friendly service and good, affordable cooking.

Whatever this building was originally designed for, it surely wasn’t a restaurant. The room is all acute and obtuse angles, which makes it a bit pokey in places, and you’re liable to clonk your head on a girder if you’re not careful. Still, the clean minimalism is very attractive even if it isn’t the most comfortable, and the surrounding glass means that the restaurant is lovely and bright at all times, as are the staff.

We’ve said it before, but Crispin seems to get better and better each time we’re here. Chef Lewis de Haas is very in tune with the ebbs and flows of the seasons, and the menu has all the hallmarks of early spring: blood oranges galore; fried potatoes with three cornered leeks; and calcots with yoghurt, chilli and za’atar. Most importantly, there’s an unbelievable skewer with plump cod cheeks and fat chunks of chorizo, grilled with a whiff of oregano that transports us to the Aegean.

There’s more #propercooking on the specials board too. Golden nuggets of lamb sweetbreads, of which we capture the last, assembled on a plate with some stupendous supporting characters - goat's curd, green pesto, little charred petals of Roscoff onion and toothy chunks of pancetta. It’s a glorious plate of food, every element well-judged and executed.

Everything here is fresh, thoughtful and measured, right down to a final salvo of blood orange curd with Italian meringue and pistachio. Therein lies Crispin’s biggest strength - it sits right on the cusp of the British seasons, delivering peak ingredients in inventive plates that never go overboard. Delicious food, well priced, with charming service - the Crispin recipe is one we’ll keep coming back for.

Crispin is an all-day restaurant and wine bar in Spitalfields serving seasonal, ingredient-focused small plates alongside an extensive low-intervention wine list. The restaurant is housed inside a unique angular glass and zinc pavilion, not far from the famous Spitalfields market and only a short stroll away from the bright lights of the City and Shoreditch. Inside, there is seating for 40 guests, plus an extra 20 on the outdoor terrace – perfect for any occasion.

At lunch and dinner guests can choose from a concise menu of snacks and small plates, which all maintain a broad modern British vibe. Head chef Lewis de Haas (previously Petersham Nurseries and The Shed) oversees a menu that focuses on great seasonal produce, presented in a signature pared-back style. While the team goes to great lengths to find quality ingredients from trusted suppliers - all the bread comes from the Dusty Knuckle in Dalston, for example, dayboat fish comes via The Sea, and fruit and veg comes from small-scale independents via Natoora and Shrub Provisions.

Dishes on the menu at the time of writing include Welsh Rarebit with anchovies and chives, burrata with oregano and artichoke, and bavette with parsnip puree, kale and horseradish, with desserts such as brown butter cake with plum and crème fraiche, and poached clementines with yoghurt and pistachio. 

Wine plays a large part in Crispin's offering too. Head sommelier Alex Price curates a wine list that focuses largely on low-intervention European wines, and the list rotates regularly to bring in new talent and great new bottles. 

Crispin has a booming private catering business on the go as well - the team is available to hire for private bespoke events of up to 200 guests, and brings its signature offering of low-intervention wines and pared-back, ingredient-focused small plates to a range of private and corporate events.