Coul House is a handsome, late-Georgian edifice in the village of Contin, around 17 miles northwest of Inverness. The Macphersons took over the reins in 2003 & have developed the place as a family business – albeit in rather grand surroundings. An impressive, octagonal dining room is central to the enterprise, with its high ceiling, cornices, long red drapes & an imposing modern landscape painting on one wall. Chef Garry Kenley runs three menus: seasonal gourmet, traditional & vegetarian. A traditional dinner might bring crab cakes with salad & mixed pepper aïoli to start, followed by a gut-busting main of beef rib with ‘skirlie’ (fried oatmeal & onion), a mashed potato, brie & pea ‘floodie’ (an elaborate savoury scone), plus oxtail & claret jus. To finish, perhaps lemon tart with crème fraîche ice cream & marmalade sauce. A fair chunk of the wine list is under £25.