West African·
Bronze Award

SquareMeal Review of Chishuru

Bronze Award

West African food hasn't got the recognition it deserves on London's restaurant scene until relatively recently. However, with brilliant spots such as Kudu, Chuku’s, and the Michelin-starred Ikoyi having all opened in the last few years alone, this cuisine has seen somewhat of a boom in the Capital. It’s safe to say say Chishuru is another very welcome addition to London’s West African party.

Having previously run Chishuru as a supper club, Nigerian-born owner and chef Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare won the Brixton Kitchen competition in 2019. Her prize? A first bricks-and-mortar site to showcase her traditional Nigerian food that really packs a punch. The restaurant itself is the opposite of pretentious; the décor is stripped back, a slight chill occasionally creeps in from the street (although the heat from the cooking more than makes up for this), and we did have to wait a little longer than we'd have liked for our food. However, Chishuru’s buzz and fantastic food, as well as Joké’s incredibly personable hosting more than make up for any teething problems.

A neat block of light ekuru started the meal with a bang, coming topped with a punchy pumpkin pesto and served alongside a walloping Scotch bonnet sauce which is delightful in moderation. Meanwhile cassava fritters were almost reminiscent of onion bhajis and were lifted by the tangy lime and coconut sauce.

The goat ayamase main course took the prize for dish of the night however; the gorgeous slow-cooked meat came drenched in a complex, peppery green sauce that grew in heat after every mouthful. Make sure to also order the set of three sides to accompany your main, as it would be a crime to miss out on Joké’s prize Attasi rice, and the candy-like sweetness of the glazed plantain provides a lovely contrast to some of the hotter dishes.

With its prices kept extraordinarily reasonable given the quality of food on offer, giving Chishuru a try is a bit no-brainer. Be warned though, your tongue might still be tingling with spices on your journey back home.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Under £30
West African
Cool, Cosy, Fun
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Celebrations, Dates

About Chishuru

Tucked away in the quirky arcades of Brixton village, Chishuru is a small West-African restaurant run by founder and head chef Joké Bakare. Originally a supper club, this is Bakare’s first brick-and-mortar restaurant and comes as result of triumphing at the 2019 Brixton Kitchen competition, which gives the winner a permanent site. Her aim is simple - to bring the authentic flavours of Nigeria to South London.

The tiny space has very little in the way of décor with simple, stripped wooden tables dotted around in front of a counter and the odd plant hanging from above. Behind this sits the kitchen which is visible from all corners of the restaurant, allowing customers to get a glimpse of how their food is being prepared while the aromas waft through. Washed pink walls play host to a few pictures, and there is also space out front for a couple tables, meaning that you can dine outside if you wish.

Chishuru’s short menu comes packed full of classic West African dishes. Small plates range from ekuru served with pumpkin seed pesto and a Scotch bonnet sauce, to chicken sweetbreads with plantain crackers and a chilli and citrus sauce. Main courses might include rare bavette steak with a yaji dressing, chargrilled cauliflower with peanut sauce and puffed rice, and red mullet. There is also a choice of sides available such as a kohlrabi salad with cassava chips, and attasi rice with a red pepper dressing. If you leave yourself enough room there’s the option to finish your meal with a dollop peanut ice cream.

When it comes to drinks, the list at Chishuru is a relatively simple affair, with a short selection of wines on offer by the glass and bottle. Prices are also kept impressively low for London, with the majority of main courses coming in at under £15.

Location for Chishuru

9 Market Row, Coldharbour Lane,, Brixton, London, SW9 8LB



Opening Times

Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat 12:00-15:30
Sun Closed
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 18:00-22:00
Thu 18:00-22:00
Fri 18:00-22:00
Sat 18:00-22:00
Sun Closed

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