Chishuru

Chishuru has lived two lives at the time of writing this review. Its first iteration in Brixton opened to barnstorming acclaim, although an 18-month lease meant it had to shut shop for a short stint. Fortunately for die-hard fans, and those who never managed to make it to that first incarnation, it’s re-opened at this rather lovely site on Great Titchfield Street.

Chishuru 2.0 is small, but split across two levels, with a wine bar-esque feel and an open kitchen on the ground floor space, plus further seating downstairs. Soft woods, wicker seating and walls the colour of pale plaster feel warm and homely, while vibrant nods to chef-owner Adejoke Bakare’s West African heritage include a bespoke orange light feature and speckled, custom tabletops.

It’s a set menu format for both lunch or dinner – priced at £35 and £65 respectively - alongside a French wine list and signature cocktails. Dishes bounce between big and bold, mellow and nuanced, and always unexpected. Our favourite dish of the night came first: a rich and unctuous fermented rice cake topped with a quenelle of dressed crab and a crisp shard of tempura sorrel. Moi Moi, a compressed bean ‘cake’, served with salty chicken livers and an egg yolk sauce, was the only dish that didn’t quite come together for us. Still, plenty of other dishes did. A pearlescent piece of cod fillet served with a dramatic, spiced sauce the colour of charcoal was rich and punchy. And the crispy, marinated skin on a piece of guinea fowl was deeply delicious, again served with another spiced sauce we wanted to drink with a spoon. Despite its fine dining lilt, there’s still a clear effort to feed here, with mains served alongside bowls of beautiful fluffy rice, fried plantain and house pickles.

One can’t help but feel warmed by Adejoke’s cooking, and there are few places in London serving food like this. If anything, you're guaranteed to discover something you've never tried before.

Chishuru is a West-African restaurant run by founder and head chef Joké Bakare. Originally a supper club, Chishuru was born in 2019 when she won the Brixton Kitchen competition, which awarded the winner a permanent restaurant site. This is Bakare’s second brick-and-mortar site - the original was in Brixton but closed in 2021 before moving to Fitzrovia. Her aim is simple - to bring the authentic flavours of Nigeria to South London.

The tiny space has very little in the way of décor with simple, stripped wooden tables dotted around in front of a counter and the odd plant hanging from above. Behind this sits the kitchen which is visible from all corners of the restaurant, allowing customers to get a glimpse of how their food is being prepared while the aromas waft through. Washed pink walls play host to a few pictures, and there is also space out front for a couple of tables, meaning that you can dine outside if you wish.

Chishuru’s tasting menu comes packed full of classic West African dishes. Starters range from ekuru served with pumpkin seed pesto and a Scotch bonnet sauce, to chicken sweetbreads with plantain crackers and a chilli and citrus sauce. Main courses might include rare bavette steak with a yaji dressing, chargrilled cauliflower with peanut sauce and puffed rice, and red mullet. There is also a choice of grilled meat or fish which you can order at an additional cost to the set menu, and dessert, which at the time of writing is a breadfruit ice cream with fermented hibiscus. 

When it comes to drinks, the list at Chishuru is a relatively simple affair, with a short selection of wines on offer by the glass and bottle. Prices are also kept impressively low for London.