Located within walking distance of Westminster and South Bank, the Park Plaza Riverbank serves as an exceptional home from home. Chino Latino - the hotel’s Pan-Asian-with-a-twist restaurant - shares this appeal, looking out towards the Houses of Parliament as double-deckers and black cabs trundle away below. Glassy and efficient, this is Asian dining with a Latin tilt, positioned to draw a crowd of celebratory diners, date night couples, and hotel guests.
Cocktails, chiefly a Kukulkan number, are the first smart move. Kukulkan, a feathered snake of Mayan mythology, often symbolises the connection between the celestial and terrestrial realms. It’s easy drinking, well-considered stuff: a boozy blend of tequila, mescal and rum, softened by sharp pineapple under a heavenly meringue-like layer of glossy coconut cream.
What follows is a pretty parade of sushi and small plates. There’s tiger maki dressed in a curious baby pink kewpie stuffed with sweet crab and prawn tempura; smoky salmon nigiri, torched to just the right edge of char; and nori tacos stuffed with avocado. It’s recognisable, crowd-pleasing stuff.
Not everything lands. A duck and pomelo salad is drenched in maple syrup, muting subtler notes of mustard seed and thyme. Then there’s a hunk of black cod, glazed with spicy miso. The cook on the fish is faultless, flaky and yielding, though this too ventures into too-sweet territory, and the promise of heat goes undelivered.
There’s no denying Chino Latino is expensive, sometimes eyewateringly so (that cod will leave you £40 lighter), but while some dishes might be hard to justify, others deliver comfort and satisfaction in spades. Beef short rib, for instance, slow-cooked with teriyaki, arrives melting and rich, topped with fresh spring onion.
Desserts, if we’re honest, aren’t really the thing to order here - but after that short rib, you probably won’t miss them. By now, with the room warmed through by the band’s glossy run of soul covers, a post-dinner cocktail serves as a neat conclusion.
Chino Latino might not surprise at every turn, but it delivers enough well-judged hits - good sushi, bright cocktails, and a relaxed, crowd-pleasing atmosphere - to make the evening worthwhile.