SquareMeal Review of Cecconi's City of London at The Ned
Cecconi’s second London restaurant (following Cecconi’s Mayfair) finds its home in Soho House’s City hotel and dining complex, The Ned.
The menu will be familiar to anyone who has eaten in one of Cecconi’s sister restaurants around the world (there are siblings in Berlin, Barcelona and Miami, to name just a few): light bites of cicchetti and salads, tartares and carpaccios as well as indulgent Italian staples of the veal milanese and lobster spaghetti ilk.
The cooking impresses, whether puffy-battered calamari dipped in tangy tartar sauce, or a main of crab ravioli involving juicy shredded crabmeat wrapped in delicate parcels of pasta and bathed in a rich tomato sauce.
Sides such as zucchini fritti and sautéed spinach are not to be missed, but be sure to save space for indulgent desserts such as profiteroles filled with creamy pistachio ice cream and drizzled with a warm chocolate sauce.
While Cecconi’s City might not have the intimacy of the Mayfair original it definitely has all of the buzz, and if you want to prolong the fun of your evening you can head to The Nickel Bar, just a hop, skip and jump across the room.
About Cecconi's City of London at The Ned
When The Ned, a hotel and dining destination which is a short stroll from Bank tube station, opened in 2017 elegant Italian Cecconi’s was the only restaurant brand to take up residence there which already had a presence in the capital.
Cecconi’s is owned by the wildly popular Soho House Group, who are also the team behind The Ned. The high-end Italian not only has a handful of sites in London, including in Mayfair and Shoreditch, but also boasts outposts in other glamorous locations such as Miami Beach, West Hollywood, Barcelona and Istanbul.
Cecconi’s City of London is found on the ground floor of The Ned, among the hotel’s conclave of restaurants. The dining room follows the same 1930s aesthetic as the rest of the hotel, featuring cosy banquette seating, art-deco light fixtures and stunning verdite columns dotted around the space. It is also clear that this is one of the higher-end offerings at The Ned, evidenced by white tablecloths and staff donning blazers and waistcoats who demonstrate an impressive knowledge of the menu.
Speaking of the menu, it is an all-day affair, which encompasses breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner. The a la carte follows the traditional four-course Italian format and is a celebration of comfort food, often given luxe updates. You can begin with cicchetti such as black cabbage arancini, before moving on to starters proper such as calamari fritti served with a lemon aioli.
From the pasta dishes, guests can tuck into the likes of crab ravioli and a decadent lobster linguine, while your main might see sea bass with lentils and green sauce or veal Milanese pepped up with lemon salt and sage.
You can round things off with classic Italian desserts such as tiramisu, while Cecconi’s comprehensive list of mostly European wines is also worth exploring.