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SquareMeal Review of Brigadiers

Silver Award

The headlining act of the Bloomberg Arcade, Brigadiers is the hotly anticipated new restaurant from JKS, aka siblings Jyotin, Karam and Sunaina Sethi, who have a Midas touch for whatever they choose to invest in (Lyle’s, Sabor, Bao, Bubbledogs) or front themselves (Hoppers, Trishna, Gymkhana – and now Brigadiers).  

Brigadiers is an Indian barbecue restaurant and sports bar, pitched in mood midway between the cheap thrills of Hoppers and the Mayfair flash of Gymkhana (prices, however, are definitely more Gymkhana). And like all the Sethis’ projects, it is precision-tuned to the location.

Here in the City that means two bars, three private rooms, a pool room with a self-service whisky dispenser, plus TVs locked to Sky Sports. The inspiration is apparently the army mess bars of India, although it may as well be the fantasy of a teenage boy.

Except this being JKS, the food and drinks are far more sophisticated than that. The long menu is tailor-made for sharing in groups, not least because you’ll want to order as much as possible from the half-dozen sections, from ‘beer snacks’ and ‘sizzlers and kebabs’ to ‘steak, ribs and chops’ and ‘rotisserie and wood oven’.

There are two show-stopping must-orders. Beef chuck bone-marrow keema, sloppy and slippery, is scooped up with chilli-cheese kulcha, which taste like a stuffed pizza crust. We also put these to good use chasing the sauce left over from barbecue butter chicken wings, smeared with ghee and cashew cream like sublime, softly flavoured satay.

Other highlights included the flavour riot of masala chicken skins with lime pickle, and from the more substantial end of the menu, rib-eye steak beautifully spiced in a dry tandoori masala. Lettuce dressed in yoghurt and mint provided fresh relief.

To drink, there are lagers and stouts on tap, cocktails on draught, and 15 wines by the glass from a global list that quickly ascends past the £40 mark all the way to a pay-cheque blowing fine wine selection that, for once, doesn’t focus on Bordeaux and Burgundy – like everything else in this raucous newcomer, a hot blast of fun for City dining, especially if you’ve a glass in hand on the terrace when the sun hits at 5pm.   

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Fun, Lively, Traditional, Unique
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating
Special occasions

This venue also offers

Private Group Dining

Location for Brigadiers

1-5 Bloomberg Arcade, City of London, London, EC4N 8AR

020 3319 8140


Opening Times

Mon-Fri 12N-3pm 5.30-11pm Sat-Sun 12N-11pm (Sun -9pm)

Reviews of Brigadiers

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2 Reviews 

Mr. Alex G

Jolly good fun
29 October 2019  

What to make of Brigadiers? To many, the notion of a restaurant modelled on the army mess bars of India and located in the heart of the City might seem like a thoroughly off-putting prospect. Sure, much of the clientele is male and suited, and therefore not to everyone’s taste, but forget this and come for the food – you won’t be disappointed. With 140 covers and some nice secluded booths, it’s possible to escape those keen on sinking pints (or the cocktails on tap) and watching sport. Brigadiers’ backers – the group behind Trishna, Gymkhana, Hoppers, Bao, Xu and more – know both how to design a good restaurant and provide a memorable experience. There is a strong focus on attention to detail (think décor, the server’s outfits and so on) combined with top-notch cooking. The overarching concept here is about as far from the almost ubiquitous tikka masala as you can imagine. Brigadiers focuses on grilling meat; put another way, it’s a posh barbecue done Indian-style; perfect not just for City boys but those who want to see their culinary boundaries stretched. With a menu divided into six sections (from beer snacks to steaks, ribs & chops), there is something for everyone, even if a cynic may argue that the design deliberately seeks to encourage a tendency towards over-ordering. My comrade and I began with Brigadiers’ selection of poppadums and chutneys. Credit to the chef for taking such a humble dish and elevating it in terms of both aesthetics and taste. What we experienced here was just a sample of things to come. A prawn, softshell crab and squid stir fry with tomato pachadi, which followed next, vanished so quickly that it would almost have been tempting to order another. However, only the knowledge that game bird kebabs and a kid goat shoulder were pending stopped us from doing so. The two latter dishes both contained an immense depth of flavour intensity. It is always a delight to see kitchens thinking somewhat out of the box and avoiding the most obvious when it comes to meats in particular. Pricing is unsurprisingly pitched towards the local clientele, although it is worth bearing in mind that a two-course set lunch is available for the remarkable price of £20 during the week. Additionally, while there is a wine list with only a few bargains present (we were delighted to find a Roly Gassmann Sylvaner from the Alsace for sub-£60), drinking beer would obviously keep costs down. Dining close to Bank Station has definitely become a whole lot more exciting.

Food & Drink

Ajit K

Brigadiers review
28 May 2018  
Exceptional food and great service, I thoroughly enjoyed my time here and would definitely recommend to anyone who has a passion for Indian food.
Food & Drink

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