Stem+Stem is the product of an unusual alliance: talented florist Dee Reid and Ed Boarland, a chef with Michelin-starred pedigree. The result is unique - London’s only wine bar, florist, and restaurant rolled into one. But anchored by a shared belief in the joys of all things British, seasonal, and homegrown, the union is seamless.
Tear yourself away from the floristry counter and you’ll spot cascades of monstera, bursts of fresh cut flowers, charming desilvered mirrors, and a bar counter backlit to frame a neat array of glowing bottles. From a corner table, we start with Maldon oysters. Nutty and briny, they’re brightened by lime, dill, cucumber and a flicker of chilli. Happily, we match them with a glass of Rathfinny blanc de noirs to catch every mineral edge.
Croquettes, too, are a highlight. One is a fistful of braised beefiness, laced with mushroom and deepened by an assertive lick of smoked chive mayo. The other is an improved aubergine parmigiana delivery system - all tomato richness, and silky aubergine. Both are comforting morsels, deserving of all cult status claims.
Cured sardines follow, fresh and summery, dolled up with raspberry, sour apple and nasturtium flower. Plaice, meanwhile, comes bronzed and yielding, reclining on a bed of samphire and salty fingers, all stitched together with a slick herbaceous vinaigrette.
British seafood is a passion of Boarland’s, but sides and extras are no afterthought. For instance, strips of raw courgette, toasted pine nuts, and a creamy basil-spiked dressing. It’s simple, pesto-adjacent, satisfying stuff. Likewise, dessert offers a riff on Eton Mess: thick, velvety berry-spiked vanilla Chantilly arrives ringed with quality British strawberries and topped with cracked meringue and pretty pink petals.
That said, not every idea lands. Panko-fried sweetbreads with carrot puree slip into obscurity under a too-powerful mint sauce. This, however, is a minor blip in an otherwise confident stride.
Service is relaxed but precise, wine is recommended without stuffiness, and even on a weekday evening in August - when the City usually lies deserted - there’s an easy buzz about the room.
Whether you’re nipping in for a swift glass of wine, a leisurely dinner, or a bouquet brimming with dahlias and other natural wonders, if modern British hospitality is heading this way - multifaceted, sensitive, full of character - it’s in very good hands.