Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill

Founded in 1916, Bentley’s has weathered two world wars, rationing, and more than a few economic implosions. Its modern era began in 2005, under the stewardship of Richard Corrigan, whose touch has been restorative, rather than revisionist: polishing the dining rooms, resurrecting the oyster bar, and treating British seafood with near-ecclesiastical reverence.

For those searching out old-world class and starched linens, there’s a proper dining room upstairs, but comfy red-leather counter seats at the ground-floor oyster bar are the place to be. Old-school in style, it never feels cold: if the atmosphere quiets, the white-jacketed team shucking oysters inches from your elbow more than compensates. Add in smartly priced wines by the glass and a mood that feels both sophisticated and sincerely welcoming, and the place becomes something close to magical.

Oysters are a non-negotiable opening act. Loch Ryan natives arrive briny and broad-shouldered, with that savoury, nut-tinged minerality that inevitably motivates another round. Atlantic Edge rocks from Pembrokeshire are softer, rounder, and faintly sweet. These unapologetic crowd-pleasers are dangerously moreish; we would have happily indulged in a third round, but what follows is a parade of classics executed with disarming confidence.

Smoked eel - silky and assertive - comes brightened by a handful of picked shallot and matched simply with a hot, garlicky, crisp-edged potato cake. Whatever preconceived notions you harbour about eel, abandon them; this is essential eating.

Fish and chips, too, are perfectly cooked, offering a crisp, craggy shell and juicy, flaky fish. The batter is a little salty, but a squeeze of lemon soon rectifies. If spectacle is what you’re after, the Dover sole is a must. Delicately deboned (in under 30 seconds, no less) and bathed in butter, once again, the kitchen proves its fish cookery is sublime. It’s generous with the lemon, perhaps overly so, but this by no means alters the enjoyment of it.

Whether it’s Lilo’s skill with an oyster knife, extra rounds of seaweed butter to polish off the final slices of sweet and nutty soda bread, or gentle, playful persuasion toward a few glasses of port to close the evening, Bentley’s treats hospitality as an art of presence, not performance. Food might be the magnet, but people are the soul. Bentley’s is a restaurant that should, by all rights, outlive us all.

A true seafood institution, Bentley’s needs little introduction. Serving up the freshest seafood around for over 100 years will often have that effect. Headed up by Michelin-starred chef Richard Corrigan for more than a decade, Bentley’s shows no sign of slowing down. This is a restaurant where diners feel relaxed, but every detail has been examined before anything leaves the kitchen. Specialising in not just oysters but all seafood, this is widely considered one of the best places to enjoy the fruits of the sea in the UK.

An essential start to a meal at Bentley’s is, of course, oysters. Here there are over ten varieties to choose from, available individually or by the half dozen. Purists can enjoy theirs as nature intended, while those seeking something more flavoured can opt for theirs dressed or fried. Oscietra, Umai and Kaluga Hybrid caviar is available for those wishing to go all-out for their meal.

From the raw bar, the delights of the sea continue with options like langoustine with ponzu and pink grapefruit or cherry clam with tomato and horseradish. Classic dishes like shellfish cocktails are elevated to new heights here, featuring Cornish crab, Atlantic prawns, lobster and brown shrimp. Starters include further elevated dishes like lobster bisque with brandy and tarragon chantilly.

Those wanting something more relaxed for their main course can enjoy classic fish and chips with tartare sauce and mushy peas or fish pie. However, the decadence continues with options like pan-seared turbot with olive oil mash and langoustine sauce. Meat dishes like a herb-crusted rack of lamb are also available, but seafood is certainly the main event here.

There is an extensive list of wines by the glass as well as bottle so that the ideal accompaniment for each course can be chosen. There are plenty of sparkling options as well as larger bottles for extravagant celebrations.