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Originally just plain old Bell’s Diner, this funky boho veteran has been given a lift following the arrival of new owners and a chef from the Flinty Red wine bar on Cotham Hill. There’s a touch more informality about the place now, with vintage curios strewn about the three eating and drinking rooms, plus a bright menu of eclectic small plates with a strong Mediterranean and North African tilt. Expect full-on seasonal flavours, a freewheeling approach and lots of fashionable artisan ingredients: white peach, tomato, goats’ curd and basil salad; roast hake with smoked ham hock, broad beans, peas and samphire; pork and chorizo albondigas with sweet pepper and saffron sauce. After that, how about lemon meringue tart or toasted marshmallow ice cream? As the name implies, Bell’s is also big on drinks, especially craft beers, local real ales, sexy cocktails and aperitifs, although top marks go to the wine list – a terrific compendium of bottles from sunnier climes with modest cash mark-ups.
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