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Regarded by some regulars as a club without a sub, Gavin Rankin’s hospitable restaurant and bar comes at the brasserie tradition by way of Bruton Place. An instinctive understanding of the pleasures of the table marks it out, even among showier offerings; an oyster bar, operational during the day, dispenses rarebits and toasted sandwiches alongside the rocks and natives, while the bar makes cocktail-drinking easy at a flat £10 a pop. Alongside the daily table d’hôte, Bellamy’s carte is the essence of elegant comfort: try iced lobster soufflé, goose rillettes or risotto milanese to start, followed by quenelles of pike with sauce Nantua or roast grouse with figs. To finish, it’s got to be îles flottantes. Such dishes are not light on labour, but there’s a sense that the kitchen abhors shortcuts. The wine list is French, but not eye-wateringly priced.
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