The ever-expanding Big Mamma empire has landed in Canary Wharf with a family flourish - part retro fever dream, part flamboyant jungle. Nestled among the towering skyscrapers of London’s financial district, this outlandish newcomer is not here to blend in.
Named after the cult 1960s sci-fi film, the interiors lean into full-blown cinematic kitsch. Downstairs, it’s all leopard print, striking chandeliers, and palm trees that graze the ceiling, whilst upstairs, you’ll find a chrome-clad dining room, complete with mirrored ceilings and a sprawling open kitchen. Even the bathrooms get the Big Mamma treatment: a giant bust of David, spotlit with his very own halo.
The menu feels familiar: Big Mamma’s greatest hits with a few new additions for the Canary Wharf crowd. There’s the signature table theatre, this time featuring metre-long strands of truffle spaghettone, swirled ceremoniously tableside, as well as over-the-top spins on Italian classics, designed for the age of social media. We start with garlic focaccia, stuffed with softened ricotta, golden and crisp around the edges, and heavily salted. Veal croquettes follow - perfect deep-fried spheres, topped with salsa tonnata and a couple of capers. The filling, however, falls flat, and could benefit from more assertive seasoning.
Chicken ravioli brings us right back on board. Perfectly al dente pasta parcels are drenched in butter and Parmigiano, with a bold crumble of Taggiasche olives offering just enough bitter edge to cut through the richness. For the secondi, sea bass fillets arrive swimming in a tomato bisque, sweet and summery with just enough citrus to keep things fresh.
One of Barbarella’s top selling points has to be the XL cocktail selection, and the Pistacchi-tini is a must, a creamy, nutty spin on its espresso counterpart. It feels designed for Instagram feeds, especially when paired with the showstopping profiterole Napoletana. This giant choux-pastry shell has swapped the classic cream filling for a scoop of pistachio gelato, drenched tableside in a warm chocolate sauce. It’s pure indulgence.
Prices have been amped up to cater for a new crowd, but aside from that, Barbarella brings more of the familiar Big Mamma formula: eye-popping interiors, giant portions, and theatrical moments that we just can’t resist.