Greek food, once considered exotic in the UK, has been rather overlooked in recent years in favour of other eastern Mediterranean cuisines. This classy newcomer, inspired by the wine culture of Athens and the diversity of Greek cuisine, aims to change that.
This is not the place to expect taverna clichés of painted tiles and olive plants. Founder Jenny Pagnoni has spent many years in Athens and her cosmopolitan background informs not only the chic, stylish decor of earthy bronzes, plush greens and stark whites but also the rotating exhibitions of Greek artists such as watercolourist Leonie de Lange and sculptor Visiliki Maliopoulou.
The menu takes inspiration from Pagnoni’s family recipes, with dishes sold as ‘social plates’ rather than traditional mezze but just as well suited to share. Tangy and vibrant pistachio and Aleppo pepper-whipped feta, a delicious, moreish dip, overshadowed the Josper-smoked aubergine with tahini and walnuts, which was tasty, but a tad predictable. Crisp, spiced potato borek with shrimp and harissa mayo was less conventional and a delicious foil for soft lamb sweetbreads.
From the larger plates, grilled lamb chops and baby chicken, marinated in baharat and grape molasses respectively, were a succulent, meaty feast that didn’t feel too heavy, with bright labneh and pickled kumquats adding a pleasingly sharp-sour note to cut through the richness. We finished with desserts of loukoumades and chocolate mousse – decent enough, but not worth the button-popping.
The wine list shares equal billing with the menu, while diners unfamiliar with Greek wine regions and grapes will find helpful guidance from the friendly and well-versed staff. Prices, meanwhile, are reasonable for the plum Charlotte Street address (formerly Señor Ceviche). The only downside to our meal was a table which was too small for easy sharing.
If you don’t feel like eating, the Greek wines can be sampled from one of the plush green stools in the stylish bar area.