SquareMeal Review of
Zaika of Kensington
From its spectacular gothic setting (formerly a bank) to its regionally accented cooking, Zaika has carved out its own niche among the capital’s Indian restaurants. Dominated by high ceilings and wood panels, the interior has a whiff of Hogwarts about it, albeit with a large central cocktail bar. It makes a suitably regal setting for the kitchen’s speciality, the Awadhi cuisine of Lucknow in north India. Many dishes are cooked slowly over charcoal flames, giving a gentle smokiness to the likes of fish curry with ginger and coconut or murgh handi lazeez (a creamy chicken speciality flavoured with tomatoes and cashews). Elsewhere, expect Awadhi-style kebabs loaded with lamb, cheese, and garlic, plus fine-dining riffs such as seared scallops with puffed rice or grilled lobster with garlic and mango. All the usual sides and naans are present and correct, while wines have been picked to withstand the spice.
Zaika of Kensington is recommended for