Cross the threshold from bustling Kensington to The Milestone Hotel to find an oasis of calm. Cheneston’s dining room, with its classic wood panelling and delicate Victorian leaded windows, is the epitome of old British elegance, but happily there’s a modern British attitude to service and cooking. Diners can eat simply if they wish, starting with a broccoli and blue cheese tart or a classic prawn cocktail, and moving on to a chicken pot pie or linguine primavera. But those wishing to put the kitchen through its paces could choose Orkney scallops partnered by prosciutto crisp and horseradish polenta, or tian of king crab with pickled radish and a ginger and lemon sorbet, followed by Gressingham duck breast with apple and rhubarb purée. There’s caviar on hand too, if you’re intent on pushing the boat out – and the 300-bin wine list covers all eventualities.