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Amidst the rush of Farringdon Road, this pan-Asian newcomer is an antidote to the outer bedlam thanks to its airy dining room and a soft jazz soundtrack. In tribute to the site’s fish and chip shop
past, the restaurant was christened Golden Fish Noodles but one rebrand later (‘yanwo’ approximates to ‘at peace’) and the operation has found its groove: warm red, amber and yellow block
colouring, a smattering of Chinese art and bare wooden tables set the scene for vibrant cooking. Meaty tiger prawns with a delicate Wasabi sauce to start are pleasingly creamy; light, crisp crab
tempura finds an inspired match with jalapeno dip. Reflecting the multinational kitchen, mains could involve a stop in Singapore for stir-fried prawns and rice vermicelli or a Malaysian lamb curry
sprinkled with coconut. Chicken pad Thai provides good value, arriving in a hefty portion balancing sweet and sour with ease and a tangy seafood Laska is similarly generous, crammed with squid,
prawn wanton and egg noodles. Further up the price scale, velvety black cod baked in sweet miso paste exorcises the ghosts of battered fish past, leaving behind an addictive smokey tinge. The bare
nature of the dining room strikes an occasionally tinny tone, although a bright yellow enclave at the rear makes for cosy group dining. A healthy, nimble approach to Asian cuisine and a prime spot
means YANWO Restaurant is positioned to build a solid reputation.
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