SquareMeal Review of
Worship Street Whistling Shop
Scratchy nostalgia played on a wind-up gramophone signals the entrance to this raffish, Bovril-toned 'whistling shop' (a term for an illicit still), while the unorthodox alcoholic prescriptions on offer are based on singular suspensions and esoteric reductions distilled in a laboratory that’s open to inspection. A recent inspiration for the bar's seasonal list was the ‘orrery’ – an 18th-century mechanical model of the solar system. Cue drinks 'mapped by flavour and in accordance to the elements or earth, wind, fire and water’. Despite such flowery prose and the mixologists’ propensity for weird ingredients such as 'duck fat cider', 'spiders web’ and 'palm ravioli', the results are generally rewarding and occasionally enthralling: we’re sold on the Imperial Feathery Fizz (Tanqueray gin, olive oil, lemon, fermented baobab, yuzu and lecithin). For solid fuel, pick a ‘fisherman catch platter’, ‘butcher charcuterie trencher’ or ‘green grocer plank'.
Worship Street Whistling Shop is recommended for