SquareMeal Review of
Raw, deconstructed and stark, this bar, café and gallery is the work of Tony Conigliaro (Bar Termini, 69 Colebrooke Row) and his protégée Zoe Burgess. The antithesis of the postmodern, baroque eclecticism that informs so many contemporary London bars, Untitled’s design references Warhol’s Silver Factory, that mid-60s New York crucible of counterculture, as well the Japanese minimalism propounded by fashion designer Rei Kawakubo. Bare, silver-clad walls delineate this monochromatic, split-level space, while the street-level lounge is neatly bisected by a brutalist, polished-concrete communal table, which is served by a small prep station. Using arcane ingredients, Mr C and Ms B’s recherché drinks are conceived to taste like their tersely annotated namesakes: ’silk’ (clay and silica); ‘snow’ (clay, chalk and enoki); ‘violin’ (oak, pine, beeswax, benzoin and black pepper). Such obscure and intellectually rarefied fixes are likely to provoke an existential crisis, and – like Warhol – Untitled is already polarising opinion. Our stance, however, is firmly on the side of the acolytes.