SquareMeal Review of
The Wine Bar
Fortnum’s wine bar – a smart timbered cabana – is further reason to visit this venerable emporium’s positively edible food halls. Look for the Champagne of the month or choose any bottle of wine
from an impressive range and pay just £10 corkage: around £25 secures a lush own-label Bordeaux, while a slightly larger outlay brings a beefy Barolo 2008 or an Aussie Chardonnay from the Yarra
Valley. Alternatively, try regional wines in flights of three (from £15.50) to go with cheeses, rock oysters, dressed crab, Ibérico ham and suchlike; otherwise, plump for a quartet of
‘dégustations’ (£16) – perhaps quails’ eggs with celery salt, Padrón peppers or a salad of burrata, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil. Cocktails include hanky panky, and ‘chandeliers’ (Tequila,
cream, crème de cacao and strawberries), while the dress code “leans towards elegance” – this is Piccadilly not Palma Nova, after all.
Wine List Of The Year Finalist
This list is about two things: selection and price. Presentation-wise, it’s a list of wines by region – albeit one that’s clear and consistent. But the range of wines is terrific. You might expect Fortnum’s to have a good range of Champagne and claret, but the Austrian and German ranges are great as well. And at shop prices plus £10 corkage, the value is unmatchable.