To keep a caviar trolley going over many years is one thing; to build it into Fortnum & Mason’s 21st-century restaurant and cocktail bar is quite another. That oscietra- and beluga-loaded vehicle is just one luxury on offer here; other treats include potato, jamón and a fried duck egg for breakfast, a trio of Alba truffle dishes and a boozy ice-cream float for afters. The carte majors in ideas that feel safe, but indulgent: pine-nut crusted scallops with bottarga butter, perhaps, followed by lamb belly with leek and potato dauphinoise, plus something cold in a coupe for dessert (brandy cherries, cinnamon and vanilla ice cream, for instance). This venue used to be The Fountain, but the new look is bolder, with a line of tomato-red stools at the long marble bar and plenty for their occupants to drink. Everything is lovely – “as always with Fortnum’s”.