SquareMeal Review of
The Rex Whistler Restaurant at Tate Britain
A restaurant as full of culture and character as any exhibit in the glorious Tate Britain, this aptly named eatery comes wrapped in a full-size Whistler mural depicting a stylised hunt for mythical rare meats. Once described as ‘the most amusing room in Europe’, it’s now home to some dedicated British cooking from a serious-minded kitchen: carefully assembled heritage tomato salad, salmon terrine and slow-cooked beef are typical lunch dishes, alongside more contemporary ideas including whipped goats’ cheese with honeycomb, figs, sorrel and mustard dressing or Hampshire chalk-stream trout with squash, girolles, ceps and watercress. To conclude, expect fine British cheeses and nostalgic desserts such as baked apple with dried fruits, toffee sauce and custard. In other words, a repertoire that suits tourists and culture vultures down to a T. Decades of careful wine buying mean that Hamish Anderson’s brilliantly curated list is a thing of beauty – priced for enjoyment rather than mere admiration.
Former Wine List Of The Year 2014 Winner
As you might expect for the Tate Britain’s restaurant, this is a classically-hearted wine list. Yet there is plenty going on here to show that wine buyer Hamish Anderson is pushing the boundaries where he can. Yes, there’s plenty of good older claret and Burgundy, but there are also aged Australian reds and Rieslings, and (as you might expect for a lunchtime venue) a decent half-bottle and by-the-glass selection, too. Clear, easy to navigate and informative, it’s perfect for its purpose while still modern and full of personality.
The Rex Whistler Restaurant at Tate Britain is recommended for