SquareMeal Review of
When The Magazine opened in 2013, its Japanese fusion menu could have been a great fit for the zany, swooping architecture of the Serpentine Sackler Gallery. But the public didn't go for it – and now a new team has arrived with just the right sort of creative, modern cooking for Hyde Park's touristy crowd. We wanted everything on the menu, starting with chilled watermelon soup (given a kick with Manzanilla sherry) and salmon tartare pointed up with crisp, crunchy Granny Smith apple and radishes. After that, who could resist a superb seared veal loin with oyster mushrooms and tarragon, a hunk of roast monkfish with broad beans or perhaps a mighty grill (aged rib-eye, pork chop, Atlantic halibut)? Note that the restaurant is only open during the day; attempts at dinner have been dropped – the park at night is just a bit too scary.