SquareMeal Review of
The Hyde at The Royal Park Hotel
A bijou bolthole in an area not necessarily synonymous with cocktailing and upmarket casual dining, the Georgian-style public bar at this Paddington townhouse hotel is a cosy spot. Coal-effect fires, anthracite padded banquettes and walls crammed with elaborately framed period artworks provide comforting surroundings in which to explore the all-day food and drink options: breakfast until 11am, small plates at lunchtime and from 6pm, English afternoon tea, and classic cocktails. Death In The Afternoon (Champagne and absinthe) will surely perk up the punters, even if prices are more Park Lane than Praed Street (adjacent). Otherwise, investigate the wide range of rarified whiskies that includes a Dalmore 25-year-old Highlander, or choose from a dozen wines by the glass. The menu is similarly appealing, encompassing scallops and black pudding, puréed sweet corn and crisped sage; beef and horseradish truffles with spicy tomato fondue; and wild mushrooms and truffled crème fraîche en brioche.