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The Goring, 15 Beeston Place
A quintessentially British restaurant for a top-class family-owned British hotel, the Goring Dining Room is a real experience. Decked out in cream and gold, it manages to stay the right side of pompous thanks to whimsical cherry-tree chandeliers and keen-as-mustard service – a mood of “unrushed efficiency” prevails. Grilled Dover sole and beef Wellington are still there for the old guard, but elsewhere more on-trend dishes delight such as confit egg yolk with chicken wings and prosciutto (“a winner”), and delicate, cured sea trout tartare with myriad specialist tomatoes and seaweed vinaigrette. Roast chicken with truffled potato salad has also “pleased greatly” and we’ve been blown away by the perfectly timed cod with razor clams and shrimps. As you might expect from a Michelin-starred kitchen, it’s all very sophisticated and pretty, although “flavours and textures are a highlight”. The “incredible” cheese trolley gets rave reviews, and the wine list has everything you would expect of such a grand establishment.
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SquareMeal 2 Stars
From: 22 November 2018
To: 22 November 2018
From: 23 November 2015
To: 18 November 2021
From: 08 March 2016
To: 23 December 2021
From: 03 March 2015
To: 31 December 2021
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The Goring, 15 Beeston Place
Victoria Tube Station 156m
Victoria Station 397m
Victoria Bus Station 183m
Victoria Palace Theatre 218m
Sun-Fri 12N-2.30pm Mon-Sun 6-10pm (Sat 6.30pm- )
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
I don't often favour the very traditional hotel dining room, but there is an almost " je ne sais quoi" about The Goring dining room, even though décor is not really one I would admire. Lunchtime the light floods into a spacious and comfortable place and it makes me feel relaxed, the atmosphere is one of unrushed, efficiency with everything seemingly under control. Given the proximity to Westminster it is probably not uncommon to spot well-heeled business people and MPs. In our case it was a former PM whose pockets (or a colleague's) are evidently deep enough to dine here and beyond. Some country property brochure waving was going on, the subject of which being bandied about the lunch table - I digress and so I will leave the tittle tattle and get on with the important stuff.
Service is second to none, drinks are expensive, but they are very good and the sommelier advises appropriately. In two visits, the food has been sophisticated and pretty good-looking, but that's not what interests me the most. Flavours and textures are the highlight and rightfully so. Starting with a summer veg salad with smoked goats curd was delightfully true to season. Confit egg yolk with chicken wings and a prosciutto was another winner. Chicken main with a potato truffle salad pleased greatly. Turbot was not too far behind served with delicately smoked mussels and a summer garden pea concoction on the side. We ordered an extra side of the sweetest heritage carrots. Breads are excellent - one with fig and raisin and a hint of fennel really did hit a high note for me. Now thinking up another excuse to treat ourselves - ah yes, have to go back to try dessert.
Amidst a London restaurant scene that seems perennially focused on the ‘latest new thing,’ there is something wonderfully reassuring about the constancy of The Goring, a smart hotel tucked away on the nice side of Victoria close to Buckingham Palace. I last visited the place a decade ago, and it seemed that little had changed since my previous visit, certainly neither the décor nor the crockery. The ethos is resolutely British, and the Goring speaks of refinement, from the British flag fluttering outside the restaurant to the wonderfully light, open and spacious dining room that looked at its best in the early Spring sunshine. Visiting at breakfast, there was a curious mix of wealthy tourists with cameras and men in suits (my comrade and I being in the latter category). The tables are set well apart allowing for the appropriate amount of intimacy and discretion and there is no buffet here, meaning all the emphasis is placed on the serving staff. They undoubtedly excelled, in terms of being friendly, prompt and efficient. In terms of the food, we were both impressed with the freshness and variation of the fruit salad with which to begin. My comrade then followed with a full English while I opted for smoked salmon and scrambled egg. In both cases, the egg was almost orange in colour, wonderfully light and fluffy and, from my perspective, a perfect foil to the melt-in-your-mouth smoked salmon, pitched at probably just about the right level of saltiness. At £32/ head, this is not an obvious ‘value’ option (continental breakfast comes in at a somewhat more competitive £24), but this is not what the Goring is about. Come, relax and enjoy the experience.
Food + drink: 2
We arrived early for a table to discover that at 7.45 the kitchen had run out of game! Given that this was the reason for the booking the evident lack of planning cast a grim and bleak shadow over the meal. The wine list is extensive but grossly over-priced, with few bottles under £50. The food (starter Lobster Omelette and a rather bland fish dish, followed by equally bland chicken but a good Beef Wellington from the trolley) was acceptable but uninspired. The £36 claret was dull. Everything else was dull but unexceptional. Clearly the restaurant has become a destination for strident groups of squawking girls modelling themselves on the future queen. This looks like an institution in decline.
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3-course lunch £52.00
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Pre-theatre menu £37.00 per person
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