SquareMeal Review of
The Golden Arrow Bar
Hard-edged, shiny, sleek and bereft of personality – despite whimsical flourishes such as top hats as lampshades – this deliberately themed hotel lounge suggests a regional hub airport of yore
rather than the old cross-channel Golden Arrow ‘boat train’ with its luxurious Pullman carriages. A mouth-watering range of 200 fine whiskies, Calvados and Cognac deserves to be savoured in more
seductive surroundings; ditto classic cocktails and house ideas such as chocolate mojito or Pullman connection (Ketel One vodka, Midori melon liqueur and lychee). The bar’s enomatic system offers
myriad wines by the glass, albeit none from England on the list we were offered; likewise, a selection of contemporary London beers might anchor the hotel to its host city. To eat, the menu offers
pizzetti, Reuben sandwiches, savoury croquettes and tiramisu: you could be almost anywhere.