SquareMeal Review of
After triumphing in Ludlow at the Merchant House, which he ran only with the help of his wife, renowned chef Shaun Hill has moved on to Worcester. Our recent meal suggested Hill has not quite found
his groove, & that cooking on a much larger scale may be proving a tricky transition. A starter of smoked eel accompanied by fridge-cold potatoes, & lacking the promised kick of
horseradish, was a disappointment. Things improved at main course: a delicate celeriac pudding accompanied tender loin of venison, while crunchy lattice of crackling provided the perfect textural
contrast to rich pork belly. Desserts included both hits & misses, our top recommendation being a Muscat creme caramel with Armagnac-soaked prunes. Despite the glitches, we are confident that
Hill & his team will find their feet. There are several nice touches – all bottles on the terrific wine list are offered in 250ml carafes – & The Glasshouse is certainly welcome in an area
light on decent places to eat. If you go, try to secure a table in the buzzing downstairs part of the restaurant, as the upstairs is much quieter.