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In a pocket of the Square Mile that miraculously escaped the Luftwaffe’s attentions and, to date, that of the glass and concrete-crazy developers, Four Sisters Townhouse lurks in a Faginesque alley. A take on an olde gentleman’s club-cum-punch house, its decor is not punchy enough to stand out from the cod-Dickensian crowd. As at its Islington sister, cocktails are realistically priced. Introductory drinks from a seasonal list that is scheduled to change weekly are a mixed bag. Refreshing and (Scotch bonnet) peppery, Kentucky Rhapsody – a bourbon, pineapple and lemon Collins with a kick – is a hit; Swedish Summer Cup is a sweet, so-so vodka, ginger, rhubarb and basil julep; while A Dream From Strathisla (Chivas 12, Amer Picon, apple wood-smoked Suze and white chrysanthemum) is a ‘meh’ Franco-Scottish Manhattan. Off-menu, however, a perfect Manhattan does pass muster. Lunchtime sarnies (Stilton, crispy bacon, roasted onion and pickled walnuts), starters (duck liver or brown shrimps on toast) and mains (couscous, feta, green beans, pomegranate and hazelnuts with an orange Muscat dressing or slow-roasted pork belly in a red wine jus with Bramley apple and a wild mushroom risotto) give way to cheese and charcuterie boards, Scotch egg and pork pie in the evening.
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