SquareMeal Review of
The Duke of Wellington
A pub with considerable poise, The Duke of Wellington is a flexible – if slightly ambiguous – destination: the Bellinis flow as freely as the London Pride, the bright upstairs dining room is as comfortable as the bar, and the daily changing menu encompasses everything from steak-frites to whole roast plaice with olive croquettes, cauliflower purée, samphire and bois boudran sauce. Having ploughed the same furrow since its late-noughties makeover, it has a self-assurance that can occasionally manifest itself as a grudging welcome, but on summer evenings, when the well-used candles are lit and the outdoor tables are in demand, The Duke has a bewitching quality that’s thin on the ground closer to Marylebone central. Three-course set lunches of, say, asparagus velouté, haloumi salad with Israeli couscous and rhubarb fool are a draw during the day.