The Commander

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Squaremeal Review of The Commander ?

Although it styles itself as a ‘porterhouse & oyster bar’, The Commander is really modelled on a flashy American surf & turf joint. To confuse things even further, it looks like a cross between a French brasserie (zinc-topped tables, red leather banquettes) & a Victorian boozer (elaborately tiled floors, curved wood bar, etched glass). The ‘surf’ (fresh oysters, crab, lobster, prawns & clams) is displayed at the bar & comes courtesy of Wright Brothers in Borough Market, while juicy rib-eyes, T-bone steaks & burgers form the ‘turf’ part of the equation. Mums & dads will love the weekend crèche, which allows tired parents to relax over a lazy lunch while accredited babysitters look after their little treasures. The deli & fishmonger have gone, but the secluded garden is still in business.


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