SquareMeal Review of
Run in tandem with Max and Noel Venning (of Dalston hero, Three Sheets), this is the brothers’ follow-up cocktail lounge. The slightly claustrophobic rope-clad cellar occupies the basement of their modern brasserie, Blixen and has an early-1960s look, with seating provided by a narrow caramel leather banquette. It’s a night-time-only den where the boys group nine signature cocktails (routinely refreshed) into three sections, hence the bar’s name. ‘Light’ might mean a rose-petal gin and Aperol Collins; ‘medium’ a Beefeater gin, pink Martini; and ‘full’ a Woodford Reserve bourbon with milk-washed Earl Grey and cedar. Our drinks all pass muster – a bastardised French 75 (with carbonated verjus, Star of Bombay gin and orange flower) for instance – but more robust palates might appreciate a ‘heavy’ section. Fortunately, classic rinses can also be rustled up. Dine on snacks from Blixen’s menu; beetroot with goats’ cheese, watercress and mustard is our favourite.
Bar Three is recommended for