SquareMeal Review of
As its name suggests, this budget-friendly spin-off from the team behind Tsunami offers tapas-sized portions of pan-Asian food ranging from run-of-the-mill nigiri and sashimi to east/west
crossovers such as roast duck and foie gras rolls or more fanciful ideas including grilled aubergine with sweet miso and yoghurt hoummos. As a rule, the simplest dishes are the most satisfying:
hits from the ‘hot tapas’ selection have included fat tiger prawns with a kick of chilli and yuzu citrus, while sea bass poached in a delicious broth of ginger, shallots, coriander and chilli shows
a touch more restraint. On the downside, lacklustre finishings and tiny, cramped tables in the modishly designed upstairs dining room point to a hasty refit, and clueless staff also need to smarten
up their act. Mind you, the touristy location and street-level bar guarantee full houses every night.