SquareMeal Review of
Social Eating House
“Relaxed and social, yet with an air of sophistication” is one reader’s verdict on this quietly confident, Michelin-starred Jason Atherton hotspot, which bears all the hallmarks of recent hip restaurant trends – from moody lighting, exposed brickwork, restored furniture and heavy curtains to cool-dude vibes and high-decibel chatter. Chef/patron Paul Hood (previously at Atherton’s flagship, Pollen Street Social) oversees an ever-creative repertoire of refined dishes that champion British ingredients while taking inspiration from around the globe. Morsels of Cornish cod are encased in raviolo with prawns and Swiss chard, slow-cooked venison loin is paired with instantly addictive beef-fat carrots and swirls of sweet mascarpone with cumin, while confit lamb fillet is accompanied by butternut squash, sprout leaves, ras-el-hanout, white kale and haggis. Simpler pleasure is provided by macaroni with Montgomery Cheddar, Parmesan and chanterelles, or go for broke downstairs with a seven-course blow-out at the chef’s counter overlooking the hubbub of the kitchen. Expect “beautiful presentation” across the board, slick service and a strong cocktail offering – save room for the alcoholic dessert sundaes.
Wine List Of The Year Finalist
Jason Atherton’s Social Eating House in Soho brings a slightly retro feel to its wine list, referencing the classic old French bistro menus of the 20th century. It has charm and character and is unfussy enough to allow diners to see quickly what’s available. It is, as you might expect, mostly French – and almost entirely European – but there are some good names nonetheless and the pricing is fair.