SquareMeal Review of
Social Eating House
“Great food, informal and fun” sums up Social Eating House, Jason Atherton’s regularly rammed Soho outpost – a noisy Michelin-starred hangout that mixes cool-dude vibes and moody lighting with cooking that bears all the chef and restaurateur’s culinary hallmarks. Chef/patron Paul Hood (previously at Atherton’s flagship, Pollen Street Social) oversees proceedings day-to-day and his seasonal menu shows a trademark commitment to native sourcing as well as a fondness for all things creative and cheffy – we’re huge fans of the mushrooms and toast, a richly flavoured, artful melee punctuated with pickled girolles, creamy cep purée and onion marmalade. In a very British twist on steak tartare, tender chunks of Buccleuch Black Angus are paired with beetroot, horseradish and egg-yolk jam, while baked Cornish hake is served with hispi cabbage gratin and textured slices of Tokyo turnip laced with saffron. Simpler pleasures range from aged native-breed steaks with triple-cooked duck-fat chips to the addictive mac ‘n’ cheese with chanterelles and luscious sundaes for afters. Social Eating House’s well-curated wine list and spot-on cocktails are further pluses, while staff are hip, happy and on point (well, most of the time).
Wine List Of The Year Finalist
Jason Atherton’s Social Eating House in Soho brings a slightly retro feel to its wine list, referencing the classic old French bistro menus of the 20th century. It has charm and character and is unfussy enough to allow diners to see quickly what’s available. It is, as you might expect, mostly French – and almost entirely European – but there are some good names nonetheless and the pricing is fair.
Social Eating House is recommended for
3 courses £26.50 or with a 500ml wine carafe £35.50
3 courses £26.50, 3 courses £33.50 (with cocktail), 3 courses £35.50 (with wine carafe):
Available Monday-Thursday 12-2.30pm and 18:00-18:30. Must be booked in advance.
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes Tax, excludes service.