SquareMeal Review of
Restaurant Mark Greenaway
“Beautiful decor”, “mind-blowing food”, “impeccable service” – Mark Greenaway certainly ticks all the boxes at his gorgeously refashioned Georgian building in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Spectacular modern cooking with “bold and interesting combinations” is the deal, as the chef’s superbly presented dishes work their sensory magic. Here you might find top-notch ideas such as roast leg and breast of Perthshire quail with pistachio, beetroot, quail’s ‘Scotch egg’ and golden raisins ahead of, say, 11-hour slow-roast pork belly, 40-day dry-aged beef fillet with white mushroom purée or pan-roasted monkfish with artichoke purée, chicken ‘lollipop’, roasted cucumber and brown-butter jus. After that, swanky tongue-in-cheek desserts might bring the renowned ‘knot chocolate tart’ (as seen on TV’s Great British Menu) or a rhubarb extravaganza involving a frozen mousse, espuma, curd, jelly, candy floss and hibiscus-poached ‘sticks’. Mark’s front-of-house partner Nicola and her “well-mannered” staff also deserve a special mention in despatches, and it’s worth having a look at the specially designed wine vault in the basement – no wonder one reader declares “I wish I could live here".