SquareMeal Review of
Restaurant Mark Greenaway
Mark Greenaway continues to tick all the boxes at his gorgeously refashioned Georgian building in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Spectacular modern cooking with bold and unusual overtones is the deal, and the chef’s superbly presented dishes know how to work a special kind on sensory magic. From the monthly four-course menu, for example, you might find top-notch ideas such as ‘potato chip’ (cured salmon with dill and treacle meringue) or a ‘vegetable garden’ of asparagus, broad beans and peas ahead of plaice with black olive, beetroot and chicken wing or duck partnered by watermelon, salsify and a leg hotpot. There’s a mid-course ‘picnic’ too (crisps, wild garlic, charcuterie, gougère) before swanky tongue-in-cheek desserts usher in the renowned ‘knot chocolate tart’ (as seen on TV’s Great British Menu) or a raspberry extravaganza involving candy floss, jelly and a frozen mousse. Mark’s front-of-house partner Nicola and her polite staff also deserve a special mention in despatches, and the whole package is reckoned to be “exceptional value for such great skill”.
UK Top 100 Restaurants
SquareMeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2018 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in spring 2018. Thousands of readers took part and the results were moderated by SquareMeal’s editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The UK survey does not include any restaurants in London. Click here for the full list of SquareMeal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.