SquareMeal Review of
Originally launched in the ‘roaring twenties’, this magnet for party girls and boys is back on form after its noughties nadir. Put the new lease of life down to a £3m refit that saw the iconic brasserie's mezzanine bar rebooted as a snappy jazz-era late lounge. Sips such as Corpse Reviver and Mayfair Lady are affordable flapper-girl fancies, but flash types will fancy seriously steep 'vintage' stirs such as the 1920s Vowel Cocktail (£80) – a blend of 1990s Ardbeg whisky, 1950s Kümmel, vermouth, orange juice and bitters. Order Champagne and oysters, blinis and posh buffet-style snacks priced individually or as part of a bar package from £85. Tap you toes to live swing bands, swoon over Brylcreemed crooners, smooch to sultry chanteuses or shake your rump to the funk when the venue morphs into a nightclub until indecent o'clock at weekends.