SquareMeal Review of
Porthminster Beach Café
Frolic on the sands with the kids, ride some waves or laze and watch the sun go down – it’s all on offer at this livewire whitewashed eatery bang on the beach The bright dining room is simply appointed with wooden furniture and tiled floors, while the patio is a top shout for alfresco meals (heaters and blankets are provided). Fresh Cornish seafood stars on the freewheeling global menu, which might run from crispy fried squid with citrus miso dressing, black spice and Thai salad to baked halibut with a salsa verde crust, celeriac, Parma ham and almond pâté or grilled stone bass with ras-el-hanout and chickpea fricassee. Meat eaters don’t go hungry either, chomping on the likes of smoked Cornish duck breast or roast Ibérico pork cutlet with beetroot, crayfish tails and sticky cider sauce before rounding off with, say, pressed chocolate cake, kumquats, chocolate vermicelli and tonka milk sorbet. The café also does a roaring trade with breakfast, morning coffee and afternoon tea between times. Service is tickety-boo and there are a dozen wines by the glass on the fairly priced list (note the cute plastic ice buckets, more commonly used for making sandcastles).
Wine List Of The Year Finalist
A casual seaside restaurant in pretty St Ives, there’s a suitably breezy feel to this wine list, with lots of space, the wines helpfully split up by style and a subtle use of colour to badge reds, whites and rosés. At 50 bins, it could never be accused of over-indulgence, though the odd food-match hint might have been a good idea, particularly since the chef obviously likes his spicy food. But for a place that can shift 400 covers on a busy day, it was a good effort.